Almost Home

Friday, March 30

Skyscrapers Abound

Almost Home                            

This is the point of the trip where you arrive before you leave or it feels like it. It was time to go back over the International Date Line and into Los Angeles on our way to Georgia.

We left the hotel for the airport with mixed emotions. It’s always good to be going home but we had enjoyed China, land of 1.3 billion people, so much and there seemed to be a lot more to explore. Our eyes had become accustomed to the masses of people, the plethora of cars and the abundance of towering skyscrapers in the cities. We had, also, thrilled to the might of the rolling rivers, the majesty of the ancient buildings and the warmth of the Chinese people. We had tasted both familiar and overwhelmingly unfamiliar foods. We had learned that the Chinese consider beer a soft drink and anything without a designer “label” not very desirable.

We were told the one child policy of this country has produced a situation where there are not enough women for the men and, if a man does not have the

Four Cs: cash, car, condo and cute; there is little hope of marrying. Even within marriage, many young people ( DINKS- double income, no kids) have been so spoiled by their parents and grandparents, they are not interested in having children of their own. Arranged marriages are beginning to come back in the big cities because the eligible adults are too busy working. Elderly parents even take pictures and resumes of their adult children to the park to “shop” them after exercise or a walk. Prenup agreements are on the rise and high divorce rates ( 37% in Beijing in 2011) are an unexpected result of the “little baby emperor generation”. Only in the rural areas of China can a couple have more than one child and then may have to pay a fine for the additional baby. Ethnic groups in Western China, however, get a pass and may have up to four children. As one might expect by looking at the numbers, there are fewer possible workers and that is resulting in companies leaving China for countries where workers are more readily available. How could one guess that a one-child policy, which seemed so prudent, could have such an effect on the country’s economy?

We were astonished to learn that Chinese children begin to learn English at age six and most of the “thirty somethings” actually have studied English. All schools in China are free after the child turns six though the parents have to pay for uniforms. Students stay in school for eleven years (forms) and then go to university if they pass the requisite competitive exams. All students do, however, have opportunities to attend technical schools or apprentice in some professions. Our guide, Owen, had graduated from college and then studied to become an “international guide”. He had to complete rigorous training to obtain a license and now freely travels all over the world.

Though 70% of the population is farmers, we marveled how China could feed their people while still employing the collective type farms. We questioned how long it would be before it is realized that small plots that cannot be mechanized can never be efficient enough to meet the demand for food. We were told that now taxes are not collected from farms, farmers can choose what they grow and many farmers leave the farms to work in the factories and in the cities. These changes may just be the beginning of the end for those big water buffalo and their owners.

It was revealed that Hong Kong, the most modern of cities, is leading the nation and one must speculate this is the model for the China of the future. Many Chinese certainly believe it to be true as the women who have the resources flock to Hong Kong to give birth so their child can have citizenship of the city.

Housing in Hong Kong

So with these thoughts and more, we gaze on the waters of Victoria Bay, the clinging shipyards, the ports and the warehouses and the immense apartment buildings as we travel across the long suspension bridge and on to Hong Kong Airport.  We say goodbye to those Smart People journeying on to Bangkok and those who are taking other flights and, of course, Owen-guide extraordinaire.  After a rapid check in and through security, Paul and I begin the hunt for those last tee shirts. Who could guess that we’d be assailed with Prada, Tiffany, Gucci and their kin as the airport shops? Seems we are not yet ready to escape the Chinese proclivity for the luxury goods.

The trip back involved a leg to Seoul and a mere 10.5 hours on to Los Angeles. Once again Korean Air provided good service but even the pilots couldn’t guarantee a smooth flight. At least seven of the hours on the plane were the bumpiest I’ve ever encountered in flying. I never felt in real danger but I surely was uncomfortable as I watched movie after movie to try to pass the time.

At last, almost blinded by the sparkling sunlight, we spied LA sprawling on the horizon.  The city skyline seemed so diminutive after the enormity of the skylines we saw in China.  Even the airport seemed inadequate in comparison to the gleaming, modern airports in the country we had just left. But, in the end, we had returned to our homeland and it felt good.

Home in Los Angeles...5132 El Rio Ave.

Hangin' in Hong Kong

Thursday, March 29

Hangin' In Hong Kong            

Today was absolutely lovely with a high in the seventies and a warm sun. What a chance to go to the highest vantage point, Victoria's Peak and literally get a bird's eye view of the islands and waters that compose Hong Kong. The territory/province has a population of 7.1 million with 98% Chinese and the remaining 2% of foreigners from many countries...a true melting pot.

As one would imagine, land here is very expensive and the cost of living is extremely high. Nevertheless, the area has the largest number of Rolls Royce and Mercedes per capita of anywhere in the world. In the middle class area of Happy Valley on the actual island of Hong Kong, a 600 square foot apartment would rent for a least $2000 and, unless the building had over 10 stories there would be on elevator! Another fact, 65% of the water consumed/used in the area (Kowloon peninsula, Hong Kong island and the New Territories) has to be imported from China and almost all the food as there is little room to grow much food.

People and vehicles freely travel from the Kowloon and Hong Kong through several tunnels and the Star Ferry. Also a ferry goes to the island of Macao that was returned by Portuguese to China in 1999. Victoria Harbor is always bustling as you'd think it would be...after all it is the third busiest harbor in the world. Our guide repeatedly made the point that the Chinese government has kept its promise to Hong Kong and has basically left it alone since it was turned over from the British (the lease was up!) in 1997.  He maintains that Hong Kong will change China rather than China changing Hong Kong.

View from Victoria Peak

Paul at the top

Cantonese and English are the official languages spoken in Hong Kong but with considerable international business conducted in the city and all the foreign tourists, it is a cacophony as you wander about the city-akin to the Tower of Babel!

As part of our half -day city tour, we not only visited the peak and wondered at the view of the myriad buildings and the numerous ships on the water below us but we continued around the island to Resolve Bay that was very picturesque. The South China Sea shimmered in its emerald glory and it was easy to imagine living in such a paradise but only if one's company paid for it.

Resolve Bay

The touted Stanley Market proved to be a bit of a disappointment with the prices set and the merchants uninterested in selling their wares as was the Aberdeen Floating Fishing Village. The going rate for being "ferried around" the village to look at trashy, rusted fishing boats was $7.50 per person and it was most definitely " MA MA HOO HOO". That means pretty bad in Chinese.

Scenes from Aberdeen

Of course the day wouldn't have been complete without a visit to a factory where we were "treated" to a demonstration of some skill...this time jewelry making...and then allowed to purchase the wares. The spiel was about 8 minutes and the shopping time 45. This tactic is getting old but today must be the last as we leave tomorrow. At least, the jewelry was attractive and the prices good. Several of our group left happy...ah, that would be the wives who were smiling.

Waiting for the bus at the Stanley Market

A return to the hotel around 1:30 left us plenty of time to try the subway system. Paul and I wanted to experience the "Ladies Market" which is the street market used by the locals and were told it was only three subway stops from the hotel. That was true IF you start from the correct subway station. I managed to get us to the east version rather than the west version of the station and we spent considerable time navigating the peninsula before arriving at the correct destination. The market was, indeed, crowded with locals and lots of haggling ensued. Try as we may, we couldn't find the tee shirts I wanted nor the cloth shoes but did find silver charms, toys for the children and a leather purse (not even a knock off designer). We actually managed to purchase the senior tickets for the trip back ($3 HK) and get home in three stops. Now that is success with a capital S in my mind.
Note: HK rate is 7.70 to $1 US

Only other shopping necessity...finding Hong Kong Starbucks cups and it took going to three Starbucks to find them. Who would have thought the mugs and the teeshirts would prove so elusive? And the price for the mugs was akin to US prices at $15 each.

Lunch spot at Stanley Market

Hong Kong Polo Club

After wandering in the local shops, checking out snack shops and "supermarkets" Hong Kong style, we had a delicious dinner at the Thai restaurant across the park from the hotel. Then we capped the evening with an after dinner drink with Ted and Judy in the hotel bar accompanied by  live music and the antics of visiting rich Russians who very probably were doing a drug deal.

  Oh, except for the water dripping from the ceiling in the bathroom and the late night visit from housekeeping, an uneventful evening!  So much for an early bedtime.

Thus, tomorrow the China sojourn ends.

Another City or Two

Wednesday, March 28
Another Flight, Another City or Two        

Up at 4:30 and on the bus at 5:40 for a 7:00am flight to Canton (Guangzhou). One hour on China South Air and a strange breakfast of a dry bun, a sweet cake and a pouch of some kind of relish deposited us at the exceptionally large airport for the city of Canton ...12 million population.

Our city guide explained that we now are in a Cantonese speaking area of the country versus the Mandarin spoken in most of China-or the varying dialects. It is important to change from "knee how" to "knay how" when greeting!

Because it is a very warm climate, the crops are rice, pineapples, bananas, lichee, and many vegetables. The land is unsuitable for wheat, apples and pears and such. In 1978, the city was open to the outside world for trade because it was so convenient to shipping in Hong Kong.

During the Cultural Revolution the city was basically closed down with people afraid to even go into the streets. When the Cultural Revolution ended in 1976, 750,000 million people were living in poverty making less than $1 per day.  Now the Pearl River delta area has one of the highest standards of living in China but many areas of the country are still in poverty... it is estimated about 240 million are still in poverty. When you visit the cities teeming with activity and the accouterments of prosperity, it is hard to believe there is so much poverty but one has to consider the massive rural areas of this country and the people who can’t fashion a good living.

Quangdong Province has been called the "powerhouse" of China mostly because of its food production. It is easy to believe the guide who says China looks like capitalist country but is called a socialist country. Zhou Ping stated, " I don't care if it is a white cat or a black cat as long as it catches the mouse. We do what is best for the country."  So capitalism is alive and well in this country. There has been a lot of foreign investment in the province and it is quite prosperous. Things have moved quickly as well in the Shanghai River delta but not as rapidly in other areas of China.

After an hour and a half bus ride, we arrived at the port for the hydrofoil trip to Hong Kong.

Victoria Bay from Kowloon

The hydrofoil trip was like taking a mental break from the hustle of the trip. There was really nothing to do but rest and look at the sea. Upon arrival, we met our city guide and boarded a bus for the trip downtown to our hotel, Regal Kowloon.  We were in the heart of Kowloon and quite near the harbor.  Ted, Judy, Paul and I headed out for a light lunch and found a French café across the street.

Pastry selections at the cafe

Fortified by croissant sandwiches and Hong Kong dollars from the adjacent exchange, we rejoined the group for a walking tour along the harbor walk. The day was beautiful and the shimmering water alight with boats of all sizes and descriptions was wonderful. One of the sights pointed out was the venerable Peninsula Hotel. This “Grande Dame of the Far East” overlooking Victoria Harbor since 1928 was just too enticing so, after we cleaned up a bit, we walked down the street to have a drink in the bar and enjoy the view. I dressed up, as did Paul but as usual, he wore his flip-flops. Just a rapid glance at the shops in the hotel building-Harry Winston, Tiffany’s, Gucci, Louis Vuitton - most complete with armed guards outside the entrances should have been a tip-off that this was one fancy spot. Nevertheless, we strolled in, eschewed the lobby restaurant and bar (which were pretty decadent) and traipsed upstairs to a cozy intimate bar where we were politely told by the bartender that sandals were not acceptable! As luck would have it though, the bar manager was there and countermanded with the caveat that we could certainly have one drink.  As expected, once seated we were served lovely hors o’deuvres and very expensive vodka tonics!  Yes, it was extremely classy but unfortunately the drapes were closed so NO view. And we stayed as long as we wished….I felt pampered. After the drinks, we joined the promenaders along lovely Harbor Walk and ended up eating outside at a picturesque cafe named Wooloo Mooloo Steakhouse. We watched the twinkling lights of official Hong Kong across the bay and the storied ferries plying the harbor on their way to the gambling palaces on Macao. All in all, a lovely way to end our first day in an exhilarating city.

Floating the Li

Tuesday, March 27                
Floating the Li

Today was an opportunity to see the karst/limestone formations up close and we did.  A forty-five minute bus ride took us to the staging area for the Li River Cruises. This time there was a modern boat terminal and numerous tourist boats lined up to whisk tourists down the lazy Li River.

We were assigned tables for eight and served tea as we prepared for launch. The height of the water determines the length of the voyage and we anticipated between three and four hours to traverse the length of the river. We literally floated past the large limestone outcroppings, sleepy little fishing villages, water buffalo and numerous ducks. The scenery was a bit mystical with the early morning fog hanging in the valleys.

Water Buffalo graze the banks

                                  
 We were expecting lunch to be served aboard but were invited to order special items a la carte which we did...crabs and prawns. The crabs were dainty little things perfectly fried with a light batter and delicious with a beer. Consuming the whole crab was easy as they were the size of a US fiddler crab. The prawns were also small and tasty.

Prawns

Li River Crabs

Lunch was a bit sketchy but , as always, one could identify noodles...in this case flat and ribbon like with a delicious brown sauce...rice with a few vegetables thrown  in, wonderful rice noodles indicative of this area, cabbage plus an egg drop soup accompanied by local oranges and tangerines.  

Delicious!

There were also dishes that remain a mystery but one contained duck heads so I'm assuming the other parts of the ducks were also in the bowl.

Beer is a soft drink in China.

 

There were interesting things to sample and Paul partook of one...snake wine that literally was a jar full of nasty snakes covered with something the Chinese call wine. I actually was not with him when he drank this concoction but as I write this some eight hours later, he is still alive ! 

Snake wine? Really?

Ted attested to the fact that he did, indeed, consume the drink.

We saw all as advertised, took the prerequisite photos and disembarked around 1:30 at the foot of an incredible street market. Alas, we had signed up for the local farm tour and had no time to shop.

Dual language signs abound

Are we having fun yet?

Lovely fruit

Finally we spot bicycles

Street market

  About half of the group stayed in the bazaar while the remainder of us loaded on elongated golf carts and set off for the hinterlands.

 A twenty-minute ride brought us to the 300-year-old home of a local farmer. We were treated to a demonstration of the soy bean press, heard the 70 year old farmer sing a song praising Mao, peered at the coffins already prepared for two family members (evidently a coffin is the traditional gift for one's 60th birthday), feasted on local grapefruit and oranges and took many pictures of the old house.

The farmhouse was sparse but immaculate with numerous posters, pictures and general paraphernalia plastered on the walls. It has neither heat nor air conditioning and the main room was lit with two electricity saver bulbs dangling from the vaulted ceiling. The farmer also showed us his prowess as he lifted a 40 pound stone weight over his 
head...he is a Kung Fu master we were told.

This farmer is prepared.

Can you find the snake wine and the picture of Mao?

Sleeping space

Gordon from our group attempted this feat and he was also successful. Just need to mention, Gordon is about 6 ft 7inches and looks like a giant!

We continued our tour through a winding and unpaved road that took us past vibrant bunches of canola plant fields where, inexplicably, lots of Chinese tourists were having their pictures made amidst the plants.

 Our guide said they like to do it because they consider the plants particularly beautiful. We also saw some people climbing the large stone outcroppings and were reminded that this area is the new climbing mecca of China.

Tranquil view

Climbing spot

Lost in translation

A few photo ops and we were back at the hotel by five with dinner to served at 6:30. Dinner was at the hotel and, guess what, Chinese lazy Susan food.  Not too bad but dinner was over at 7:15 so we joined a few people in the bar...not the "romantic bar"( yes, special for tourists)... and up to bed. The wake up call is 4:45 and on the bus at 5:40 for a 7 a.m. plane ride!

Tea for Two in Guilin

Monday, March 26

Tea for Two in Guilin                    

We had an early breakfast and then disembarked the ship accompanied by a rousing band send-off compliments of the Lianna crew. We had arrived in Chongqing, which was new name for the old Nanking. The city of 32 million is a transformed modern river port that actually has a history spanning 3000 years. Again numerous new construction to see but this time a bit more interspersed with older, traditional structures. Also there are a large number of porters with bamboo poles. There was a noticeable lack of bicycles but this was easily explained because of the topography.  Mountain bikes would have a hard time on these towering hills.

There are many rivers in the city and all are tributaries of the Yangtze. The presence of so much water makes the city quite foggy especially in the winter. However, we only found drizzle on our visit. I understand that there is an average of 80% humidity and temperatures can reach 113 degrees in the summer. Perfect for growing rice but I’ll take more moderate temps and the light rain.

At one time, this city was the capitol of China and was an important hub during World War II. Its history is tied closely to the United States as General Chennault chose this as headquarters for the all volunteer American pilots who fought with the Chinese against the Japanese.  We visited the famous Flying Tiger Museum and saw the home of Gen. Chennault and learned about the training and advising (of Chinese pilots) he provided when the government was headed by Chiang Kai Shek.

Flying Tigers

After this museum visit and the opportunity to buy more souvenirs, we went to yet another lovely airport where we boarded a Xiamen airline flight south to Guilin. After a particularly turbulent flight, we stepped into 73 degree weather ( our warmest yet) and onto another bus for the ride into the city.

Waiting at the airport

What?

Along the way, we stopped for lunch and had the local specialty of noodles with chicken and vegetables and some things that were undetermined. Even us uneducated Americans recognized the outcroppings of karst that mark the region and are so ubiquitous to Chinese paintings.

Downtown Guilin

 Guilin, a city of 700,000, is located in a subtropical area in proximity to the China Sea. The karst 
( limestone) “hills” are up to 300 meters high and were formed 300 million years ago in the ocean and, when the ocean receded, were left in all their beauty. They have been immortalized by Chinese painters for thousands of years. They now are also valued for their deposits of copper and iron.

Light show

Entrance to Reed Flute Cave

Inside the cave

After lunch, we were whisked to the Reed Flute Cave-a cave nine million years old. It was opened to the public in 1962 but has been used by centuries by the local inhabitants for storage and was made even more famous because of the book, The Joy Luck Club.  The cave was pretty amazing and was complete with a light show but it seemed we were rushed through and back to the bus so we could venture out to the Guilin Tea Science Research Institute. Most memorable sight at the cave visit was the water buffalo horn “treasures” we spied on the way out. Unfortunately, for once, not enough time to shop.

Traveling through the city to the Tea Institute, we were struck by the huge number of motor scooters. 

Just a few of the many....After seeing vast numbers of cars in other cities, it was startling to view a sea of brightly colored scooters often carrying a driver and more than one passenger precariously perched on the back. Even little children were piled up on the scooters.

Local tea pickers

Tea fields

Tea processing chart

The Guilin Tea Institute, founded in 1965, is nestled on flat land on the north side and at the foot of the stark mountains. The plantation is about 40 hectares and contains 250 tea plants. There was much to learn about tea and the process by which it becomes drinkable and we plunged right in just after we donned what we thought were the hats worn by the “pickers”. Only after we all had taken photos were we told that what we thought were hats were actually the flattened baskets used to hold the tea leaves as they are picked. Crazy Americans!

The area itself was the home to a royal tea garden from the Ming Dynasty 400 years ago.  Tea facts: Tea needs both water and humidity and the same kind of tea bush can make different kinds of tea depending upon the leaves, fermentation process or if the spike of the plant is used. The spike is the part rendering “white tea”.  Compressed tea, which is delicious to me, has all the leaves chopped up with flowers and lichee, which make it naturally sweet.

After watching the demonstration of how the fresh leaves are heated, dried and generally prepared for consumption, we moved to a large room to have the tea ceremony explained by our host.  During the ceremony, we gleaned much information about tea. 

Acacia trees are the source for green tea and one must pick the leaves with flowers before 10:30 am , let the leaves mixture rest overnight and then pick out the flowers. Evidently this process must be completed 2 or 3 times before the tea leaves can make good green tea. It is essential to use a porcelain pot to brew green tea. (The composition  of the brewing pot is  according to the kind of tea being brewed.)

There are fermented teas like oolong and non-fermented like white and green. For non-fermented, one should not boil the water nor steep the tea. It is important to always make the non-fermented in a glass pot but use a clay pot for the fermented type. With either kind, technically, you throw away the first pouring of the tea and cover the leaves with water again to make the “drinkable” tea. One can use the fermented tea leaves or the compressed version five times before discarding and you can use the non-fermented leaves three times in one day. Therefore, there is very little waste when drinking tea.

Chinese add neither sugar, lemon nor cream to tea but prefer to drink it as it is. The cup is held very delicately and differently for men and women. We were admonished to consume the tea in tiny sips “not like a water buffalo”!  Surprisingly,  tea leaves are not very perishable and compressed tea is called longevity tea as it can keep for 50 years.

Hotel lobby

After the ceremony and the purchases that we had to ship home, we finally went to the hotel for this locale. The Royal Garden Hotel, located right on the Li River, was lavish with many amenities.

However, we soon learned that though the hotel was on a first class street, the street behind the hotel was probably third class!

Dinner was not included this night so we opted to join Owen for a local experience. We left the magnificence of the Royal Garden and walked less than a block to see how the other people lived. Garbage was piled in the streets and the streets themselves were populated with what appeared to be some unsavory characters. Nevertheless, we trusted Owen and he led the ten of us to a hole-in-the-wall spot that we certainly would not have tried on our own.

The meal was memorable at least with several courses we couldn’t quite identify but of the three that we could:  one was a rabbit carcass that must had been stretched out and then cleavered into two inch pieces before being thrown in a stew pot. Actually, the mixture was tasty but a little strange in appearance.

The second was duck that definitely included pieces of esophagus and heavens knows what else…might have been blood vessels, as the pieces resembled round pasta but were a rubbery texture. This dish had a very unfamiliar flavor and Judy and I mostly didn’t consume it but Paul and Ted gamely ate it.

The third course was fish that, presumably, was caught in the local river. At this point, I was filling up on the old standby, rice.

Ted was brave!

Overall, this meal won the award for “most unusual” and the restaurant was quaint to say the least including having a roll of what appeared to be toilet paper as the napkins.  

Judy eating rice

So much for living like the locals, I was ready to return to my room overlooking the hotel swimming pool and tennis court.